Backpacking Vietnam: Complete Route and Guide
- margauxgathy6
- Oct 6, 2024
- 29 min read
Updated: Jul 25
Vietnam has so much to see and do that it can be overwhelming. But luckily it is fairly easy to move around the country and make the most of your time there. Most people can get a 45 day visa or visa-free stay, which is plenty enough time to do everything in this guide, with wriggle room for more. I took 37 days to do this trip, and I took my time. There is generally a mix of backpackers going from the south of Vietnam to the north, and those going north to south - it doesn’t really make a difference. I went north to south, following this route. This guide includes things to do in each place, the best places to stay, food recommendations, and general information to help you be as prepared as possible for your trip to Vietnam.
Contents
Train Street, Hanoi
Getting Around Vietnam
Getting between places in Vietnam can seem daunting, but do not worry. It is much easier than you imagine! Buses run between every destination, and a lot of them are sleeper buses, so you get a bed instead of a seat, whether you travel in the day or at night. The buses are also relatively cheap, costing around £10 for some of the shorter routes, and £20 - £25 for the long overnight buses.
To book buses, I highly recommend booking through your hostel. A lot of people book through 12Go Asia, and this does work if you book in advance or get tickets with ‘Instant Confirmation’. However, I saw so many instances of people getting stranded because bus tickets were fake.
Booking buses through the hostels in Vietnam was never more expensive than booking online, and it came with the huge advantage of being picked up at your hostel. If there is a problem, there is someone who speaks English to help you, and they have the phone numbers of the bus drivers to troubleshoot. I really cannot recommend doing this enough.
Top tip for taking buses in Vietnam: if the bus stops for a toilet break, get off and go to the toilet. You have absolutely no idea if or when the bus will next stop, and buses with toilets are in the minority. Some drivers will drive for hours without a break, so be prepared. Some of the toilet stops will be questionable - I stopped in the middle of a field at 2am once, and we all had no choice but to go to the toilet right then and there. But it is better than nothing. You will need to bring toilet paper/ tissues and hand sanitiser for most stops. Make eye contact with the driver when you get off to make sure they remember you and don’t leave you behind. The drivers generally have limited English, so it is not worth the risk.
Fishing Village on the Hai Van Pass
Logistics: Planning and Making Bookings
Vietnam is a huge backpacker destination and so most things can be booked last minute. I was booking my buses two or three days in advance, or when I arrived at my destination. Most hostels can be booked two days in advance, and all activities can be booked day before or day of, with the exception of the Ha Giang Loop and Ha Long Bay cruise. More on those below.
Ha Long Bay
Hanoi
Your first stop in Vietnam is its crazy capital city, Hanoi. I loved this city, especially the Old Quarter. I spent 4 nights here, and that was definitely enough to see the highlights, but you could stay longer if you want to see more.
Things to Do
Explore the Old Quarter
The Old Quarter of Hanoi is overwhelming with its busy narrow streets but it is incredibly picturesque and so fun to walk around. There are countless shops, amazing food options, and beautiful streets to explore. There aren’t any landmarks as such, so just have a walk and get lost!
Train Street
The iconic train street is located not far from the Old Quarter, and it is well worth a visit. The train timetables you find online are almost always wrong, so I recommend walking over there, asking café owners, and being prepared to wait a little. The café owners might lie to you and say a train is coming now just to get you inside their café, so be wary of that as well! I was lucky and saw a train both times I went and it was quite cool. The street itself is gorgeous as well, with cute cafés the whole way down it, so take a walk to explore there too.
Walk around Hoan Kiem Lake
This little lake is right on the edge of the Old Quarter and is lovely to walk around. You can see the temple in the middle and visit Huc Bridge too if you are interested. It’s not a huge lake so it doesn’t take too long to get right around.
Hoan Kiem Lake
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum
The HCM Mausoleum is a bit further away from the Old Quarter, but is an impressive monument to Ho Chi Minh. It is free to visit the outside of it, but beware your legs and shoulders must be fully covered in order to enter. It is shut to visitors every day between 11am - 12pm.
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum
Visit Museums
If you are nearby the HCM Mausoleum, check out some of the incredible museums in the area. The National Military Museum and Prison Museum are the most popular.
The Note Coffee
This is an iconic place in Hanoi, a café covered in sticky notes written by people from all over the world. You have to buy a drink or food to go in, but it is so worth it.
The Note Coffee
Where to Stay
Choosing a hostel in Hanoi was overwhelming because there was so much choice. I stayed at Old Quarter View Hanoi Hostel, and honestly it was one of the nicest hostels I have ever stayed at. It was in a perfect location, was very clean, had great showers, comfy beds, and free beer every night which was great to meet people. They also helped me book most of my northern Vietnam tours and buses. I have also heard great things about Buffalo Hostel (which is right next door to Old Quarter View), and Drift Backpackers. Wherever you choose, however, make sure you are in or right next to the Old Quarter.
Where to Eat (vegan friendly places)
Hanoi is food heaven. It has endless options which cater to everyone, and I definitely had some of the best meals of Vietnam there. You’ll see countless places that say ‘Vietnamese Food & Vegetarian/Vegan’, and these are always a good option, and there are so many unnamed places on and around Beer Street which have choices for you. Here are my recommendations for places that are vegan and veggie friendly.
Part of the spread at Katze
Katze Vegan & Vegetarian: you HAVE to go here, even if you’re not veggie. The best value for money, the kindest staff, and such an incredible story. Don’t be put off by the alleyway you have to go down!
Banh Mi 25: it’s iconic for a reason!
Hong Hoai’s
V Cuisine: there are plenty of these in the Old Quarter - they all have a veggie menu as well as a regular one
Vegan Super Shop: for western food that’s a little more expensive but so worth it. They have great smoothie bowls, breakfast, and lunch options.
Smoothie Bowl at iVegan Supershop
Banh Mi Bubble
La Capo Café
Madam Tran Restaurant
Matto Menu
Always Café: this is a Harry Potter themed café which has vegan butterbeer! It’s actually a lot of fun to visit. You can dress up in Hogwarts gowns and drink themed cocktails and mocktails.
Banh Mi 25
Ha Giang Loop
The Ha Giang motorbike Loop is probably the most well-known tour in Vietnam. I met so many people who said they wouldn’t have come to Vietnam at all had it not been for the loop. While it was a lot of fun, I wouldn’t say it quite lived up to all the hype, but here is my experience and advice.
I booked a 4 day 3 night (4D3N) trip through my hostel in Hanoi, and the loop itself was run by Ha Giang Hostel. It cost £150. This was a smaller group, which is exactly what I was looking for, and I highly recommend it. If you are looking for a larger group that is more party-focused, look into Jasmine Tours, Mama’s Homestay, and Buffalo Tours. Jasmine and Mama’s need to be booked in advance.
You have the option of doing either 4D3N or 3D2N: I chose 4 days because it gets you closer to the border with China, you visit a cave, and it gives you more time on the last days. If you do 3 days, the last day essentially squeezes 2 days worth of driving into one day, which is exhausting and uncomfortable.The exact itinerary changes per group but everyone ends up doing pretty much the same thing on their trip. This is what my Ha Giang Loop looked like.
We were picked up from the hostel in Hanoi on the first day and taken to the bus stop, where we boarded a 6 hour bus to take us to the town of Ha Giang. It was a very comfortable ride with great views, and I recommend doing this journey in the daytime if you have the option. We arrived at Ha Giang Hostel which was great, and spent the night there before starting the loop the next day.
On day 1 we were matched with our easy riders, the guys that would be driving our motorbikes. I STRONGLY recommend getting an easy rider. The roads are dangerous and require very skilled driving, and it makes the whole experience much more enjoyable if you can admire the views. I saw so many motorcycle accidents on my loop, and every single one of them was a foreigner. We set off with our small backpacks strapped to the back, and left Ha Giang to go into the mountains. It was incredible scenery and we stopped at multiple viewpoints for photos and a rest.
Days 2 and 3 were much of the same, with more scenic stops. On day 3 we went so close to the border with China that my phone sent me a ‘Welcome to China’ text. It was really cool. We also saw the iconic snake road on this day.
Day 4 was when we visited the cave. It was a little walk uphill and then we entered and saw some incredible limestone rock formations. We then drove the final length of the loop back to Ha Giang town where we showered and got on buses to our next destinations.
Food on the Loop
All meals are provided on the Ha Giang Loop, and the food was honestly great. It was family style sharing for lunch and dinner, with so many dishes to choose from. Dinner was often a hotpot which was a lot of fun. They catered very well for vegetarians which was great. If you want to buy drinks, that expense is on you, but they supply you with endless happy water, essentially homemade alcohol.
Where do you Stay?
While you’re on the Ha Giang Loop, you stay in homestays in little villages along the way. These all have a large dining area downstairs (which turns into a karaoke stage at night), and then the rooms and bathrooms are usually upstairs. The rooms are mostly large spaces with mattresses on the floor, divided up by curtains. On my tour, we never had more than 30 people in the room (most of the time it was 15), and they were all really nice places to stay. On some of the bigger tours, the quality of accommodation is not as good, and you share a room with 50 people or more. Bathrooms are shared, and all of the homestays I was in had western toilets. They provided us with towels in each homestay.
Some of our rooms on the Ha Giang Loop
Sapa
I took a bus from Ha Giang to Sapa to do a trekking tour. I would recommend booking this when you get there, as I didn’t have the best experience with my tour company - it was barely any walking and the guide just disappeared once we arrived at our homestay (at 1pm). It wasn’t helped by the fact that it was foggy pretty much the entire time, so we really couldn’t see much.
Tips for Trekking in Sapa
Here is my advice for getting the best out of your time in Sapa:
Check the weather: if it is going to be cloudy, consider postponing trekking or doing a day trip when the fog isn’t as low. In my opinion, it isn’t worth trekking in the complete fog - there were times where the visibility was about 20 metres.
Go in peak rice season: I went to Sapa in February, and little did I know that this is not rice season. All of the vibrant green rice terraces I was promised were brown and muddy, which was a bit of a downer.
Consider a day trek: day treks often go over a longer distance than the overnight ones. On my first day, I walked less than 10km, and the second day was less than 5km. The day trekkers did this whole route in one day, plus some extra.
Ask how big your group will be. I was unlucky to be put in a group with a couple who were much older than me. While they were lovely, it wasn’t the social backpacker experience I was looking for, so make sure you are informed before you set off.
Rent welly boots! It gets very muddy in Sapa, whatever the season, so I definitely recommend getting welly boots. Most tour companies rent them, as well as shops in town.
Bring waterproofs: the mountain weather in Sapa can be unpredictable and you will probably need rain gear at some point! This includes a cover for your backpack.
Ha Long Bay
I did an overnight cruise on Ha Long Bay and it was one of my highlights of Vietnam. I booked with Fantasea Cruises through the Old Quarter View hostel in Hanoi, and paid £100 for a shared double room on the boat. It was a small boat which was lovely, and it included so many activities.
We were picked up from Hanoi and driven about 2 hours to the port in Ha Long, where we waited to board the boat. From there, we set sail through the bay and saw some of the incredible scenery it has to offer. Over the two days we went kayaking, visited an oyster farm, explored a cave, had a spring roll making class on board, climbed to the top of Ti Top island, swam at the beach there, and enjoyed time on the boat. At night it was honestly magical seeing the lights from the other boats and being in such a peaceful area. We had great food on board and it was a really social atmosphere which was nice. We got transferred back to Hanoi after the trip. I strongly recommend Ha Long Bay on your trip to Vietnam!
Ninh Binh
Ninh Binh is only 3 hours from Hanoi but provides such a peaceful environment after the chaos of the city! I stayed 4 nights there which was way too many, but meant I had time to rest. I recommend only 2 nights in Ninh Binh to see the highlights.
Things to Do
Trang An Boat Trip
Trang An has a beautiful network of rivers and mountains, and has three boat routes through them. I recommend choosing route 3, which includes visiting 3 temples and going through 3 caves, one of which is 1km long. It is three hours long and was absolutely stunning, despite the rain that I had! It cost 270,000 VND (approx. £8.20). You need to get a taxi from Tam Coc to Trang An unless you want to cycle. The return taxi trip cost £10 for 2 of us, and the driver came back to pick us up.
Trang An
Mua Cave Viewpoint
Mua Cave Viewpoint is the iconic place you’ve seen in pictures of Ninh Binh. I cycled from Tam Coc and it only took 20 minutes on flat roads through the rice fields. It costs 100,000 VND (approx. £3) to enter the viewpoint, plus an additional 5000 VND (approx. 15p) to park a bicycle or 10,000 VND (approx. 30p) to park a motorbike. You can walk up both sides of the viewpoints, but be careful because the path at the top is very sketchy and is slippery in the rain, especially around the dragon. It’s about 500 steps if you go up both sides.
Mua Cave Viewpoint
Tuyet Tinh Coc Lake
This is a small lake near Trang An nestled between mountains which you can walk around. I wouldn’t say it’s worth going out of your way for, but if you find yourself with extra time, add it to your itinerary. I cycled there from Tam Coc which took about an hour on a slow bike. It cost 50,000 VND (approx. £1.50) to enter, plus an extra 5000 VND (approx. 15p) to park the bike. If it’s nice weather, there are plenty of places to sit and relax. Otherwise, you can walk around the lake and explore the temples there. They offer bike rentals to cycle around the lake, but it’s not that big so it wouldn’t be worth it! There are places to buy food and drinks there too.
Mua Cave Viewpoint
Explore the rice fields in Tam Coc
There are plenty of little paths going through the rice fields in Tam Coc which are nice to walk around. You can also walk along the river in certain sections which is very pretty.
Trang An
Where to Stay
You need to make sure you stay in Tam Coc, not Ninh Binh city itself! There is nothing there for you and it’s far from everything to do in Ninh Binh. I stayed at Tam Coc Central Bungalow and thought it was great. The beds were incredibly comfortable and there was a great free breakfast. It wasn’t overly social but I still met people there. Banana Tree hostel is also very popular; it has a bit more of a party vibe but it’s easy to join in even if you aren’t staying there.
Where to Eat (vegan friendly places)
Tam Coc has plenty of restaurants and even some specialised vegan ones. Here are my favourites:
Curry at Ngon Vegan
Ngo Dong Vegan Restaurant
Tam Coc noodle soup restaurant
Buddha Belly
Ngon Vegan: a little more expensive but amazing food
Gia Bao Bar and restaurant
Hoang Viet Family restaurant: for the best tofu and tomato sauce I had in Vietnam!
Ninh Loan: this was one of the cheapest places I found
Reply 1993 Tam Coc: this place is mostly a café but they have great banh mi as well
Phong Nha
Phong Nha was my favourite place in Vietnam. While it was small and you don’t need long there, all the activities are a lot of fun. I don’t recommend more than 2 nights here, and you can get away with one if you arrive early in the morning or leave late at night.
Caves in Phong Nha
Things to Do
The Duck Stop
I would be lying if I said the Duck Stop wasn’t the reason I went to Phong Nha. It’s the silliest place but honestly so much fun. You can rent a bike and cycle there, or take a taxi. It’s not that far and is along a flat, quiet road. Alternatively, if you do a cave tour, some of them include a drop off at the Duck Stop at the end. More on those below.
The entrance fee is 100,000 VND (approx. £3), and it includes Vietnamese pancakes, a drink, and 15 minutes with the ducks. You feed the ducks, play with them, and generally have a big laugh. I don’t think I stopped smiling the whole time. I cannot recommend this place enough, it’s hilarious. And don’t worry, it’s not a duck farm, the ducks are not food!
Paradise Cave and Dark Cave
I did a tour through my hostel that included Paradise Cave and Dark Cave. Phong Nha is famous for its caves - the biggest cave in the world is there. But it’s extremely difficult and outrageously expensive to visit that, so these are the best alternatives. The tour cost 1,400,000 VND (approx. £43), so was a little more on the expensive side, but in my opinion was worth every penny. It included an incredible lunch, as well as pickups and drop offs at your hostel.
Paradise Cave
Paradise Cave is 31.4km long, and you enter and walk through the first 1km of it. It is truly incredible. I saw a lot of caves while backpacking Southeast Asia, and this one was definitely the most impressive.
Mud Bath in Dark Cave
Dark Cave was so much fun to visit. It’s a bit of a playground and we all had the best time. You start by ziplining across the lagoon to the entrance of the cave where you then jump into the water and swim into it. You’ll walk a bit, swim a bit, and walk through a lot of water until you reach the mud bath. At this point it is completely dark, and you only have your headlight to guide you. The mud bath was a lot of fun to swim in, and we got to experience the full extent of the darkness when we turned our lamps off. It was very cool. You’ll then swim and walk back into the daylight and have time to enjoy the lagoon. It has ziplines, swings, water trampolines, kayaks, slides, and obstacle courses, so you won’t get bored! Honestly it was one of my favourite days in Vietnam.
Paradise Cave
Where to Stay
There aren’t many hostels in Phong Nha, and everyone stays at Central Backpackers. It’s on the main street, right next to the bus stops, and they have everything you need. It’s very clean, you can rent bikes from there, and they help you book transport and tours too. Plus free breakfast, free beer every night, and an on-site restaurant.
Where to Eat (vegan friendly places)
Phong Nha is a tiny town without many places to eat, but these two had vegan options:
Tree House Café Restaurant
Mountain View Café and Restaurant (at Central Backpackers)
Hue
Hue often gets skipped by backpackers, but I recommend spending at least one night there for a couple of reasons: to visit the abandoned water park, and to start the Hai Van Pass. But if you’re into history, definitely don’t skip Hue!
Things to Do
Abandoned Water Park
The Abandoned Water Park is the main attraction in Hue for most people. It’s quite cool to walk around and explore the different sites. The park is free to enter but if you see a guard (they do wander around sometimes because technically you’re not allowed to visit), then you might have to bribe them. Luckily I didn’t see any guards, but the rain I had on that day might have helped. You’ll need to get a taxi there from the city centre, and usually you can ask them to wait to take you back.
Abandoned Water Park
However, the Water Park is getting demolished as we speak. Already when I was there (February 2024), a few of the sites that were on Google Maps were gone. Make sure you check up on the recent status of the site before you go! It is highly likely that most of it will be gone by the end of 2024 or in the first half of 2025.
Abandoned Water Park
Imperial City
The historical area of Hue is great to visit, especially if you like history. It has beautiful buildings, gardens, and art, and you can spend a while walking around the complex. The entrance ticket costs 200,000 VND (approx. £6), or for 420,000 VND (approx. £13), you can visit the Imperial City and two of the tombs.
Tombs
I recommend visiting two of the tombs in Hue. My favourite was the Khai Dinh tomb which blew me away with its stunning mosaic decoration. The most famous tomb is the tomb of Tu Duc. This one is located within a larger area which you can explore. It wasn’t as unique, but was still fascinating. You will need to get a taxi to each of these places, but Grab picks you up in all of them, so don’t worry about getting stranded!
Imperial City
Where to Stay
I stayed at New World Hotel, which was a hotel with dorm rooms too. It was a quiet place and not very social, but I wasn’t there long so didn’t mind. It was in a good location and was very clean. I met plenty of people who stayed at Melody Hostel and enjoyed it there too.
Where to Eat (vegan friendly places)
Hue has loads of options for great food. Here are a few I went to and enjoyed:
Thanh Lieu Vegetarian Restaurant
Thi’s Kitchen
Banh Ghan
Hai Van Pass
The Hai Van Pass is a road that starts in Hue and goes all the way to Da Nang/ Hoi An. Most people do this on a motorbike, but you can also do it in a car, although it’s a bit more expensive. There are plenty of tours to book on Get Your Guide and similar sites, as well as through your hostel. I did it on a motorbike with an easy rider that I booked through my hostel in Hue, and it cost me £30.
Along the road, you stop at local villages, a fishing village, a waterfall you can swim in (you’ll have to pay 30,000 VND entry for this (approx. 90p), a beachside restaurant for lunch, all before doing the Hai Van Pass itself. The pass is the most stunning part, with views of the coastline and the mountains surrounding it. You arrive in Da Nang, have a visit to the Marble Mountains, and then get dropped at your hostel in Da Nang.
This was also one of my favourite days in Vietnam, but I was lucky with the weather. Hai Van means ‘ocean cloudy’ in Vietnamese, so be prepared for bad weather. And be VERY careful if you decide to drive yourself, as the road is dangerous with its curves and filled with drivers with much too big of an ego :)
Hai Van Pass
Da Nang
Da Nang is known as a huge digital nomad hub in Vietnam, so it doesn’t feel like the rest of Vietnam you will have already visited! But there are still quite a few things to do and I’m glad I made the stop. I stayed 2 nights there which was plenty.
Da Nang from the Marble Mountains
Things to Do
Sunworld Ba Na Hills and the Golden Hand Bridge
Probably not what you were expecting from Vietnam, but Sunworld theme park in Ba Na Hills is known for the famous golden hands bridge. Is it worth visiting just to see the bridge? I think so - the whole place was an incredible construction and it has lots of theme park rides and games too. You can spend a day here if you want.
The best way to get to Ba Na Hills from Da Nang is by taxi. If you can split this with other people, it will make it much cheaper. The only other option is by taking a tour, and I would advise strongly against this - it is extremely overpriced and you have no freedom once you enter the park. The tickets cost 900,000 VND (approx. £28) for entry, which includes pretty much everything with the exception of a few big rides and food and drink.
There are so many restaurants and places to eat inside, but it is all overpriced. So, if you’re trying to save money, bring your own food and water, but make sure it’s hidden in an opaque bag because they do confiscate food that they can see. They didn’t check my backpack though.
Make sure you get there before 9:30 for the bridge, because that’s when the tour groups arrive. It is always busy, so you won’t be alone up there, but it doesn’t make a big difference. The theme park rides are mostly indoors in the fantasy park area. It’s quite well hidden, but once you’re inside there are several floors of rides and games to do, including bumper cars, a drop tower, 5D cinema experiences, and much more. Again, the earlier you are there, the less time you will queue for the rides. It starts getting busy past 12pm.
Da Nang Dragon Bridge
Dragon Bridge
The Dragon Bridge is a landmark in Da Nang. Every Saturday and Sunday at 9pm, the dragon breathes fire. A big crowd gathers to watch and it’s a cool experience. It will then breathe water afterwards. Be careful that you are upwind of the dragon, because if you’re on the wrong side, you will get absolutely soaked by the water spray!
Beach Day!
There is a large beach in Da Nang which is great to swim, relax, surf, parasail, play beach volleyball, and more. It reminded me a lot of Miami with the skyscrapers right behind it, but it was still enjoyable.
Where to Stay
Rom Casa is one of the most popular hostels in Da Nang. It’s in a perfect location - you definitely need to be in this area of the city - and it’s very social. The whole hostel is designed in shipping containers, which is very cool but it does get loud at night. The beds might not be the most comfortable, but for a night or two it’s fine!
Where to Eat (vegan friendly places)
Because of the big digital nomad scene, there are so many great places to eat. Here are some of my favourites:
iVegan Supershop: the same chain as in Hanoi, and it’s just as good!
Roots: incredible vegan food
Bodhicitta
Vavila
Falafel bowl at iVegan
Hoi An
Hoi An is such a gorgeous city. There is so much to do and so many places to explore. I spent 4 nights in Hoi An which is more than enough to see everything on offer, and gave me more time to see a few extra things.
Things to Do
Lantern Boat Ride
The famous lantern boats in Hoi An are definitely a tourist trap, but after walking past the river so many times, it was nice to be a part of it. There are plenty of people on the riverbank offering boat rides, and they all charge the same amount. You pay 150,000 VND (approx. £4.60) for a boat of 1-3 people, so this price is split between each person on the boat. Then you will also have to pay for a lantern to release, which costs 20,000 VND (approx. 60p). The boat ride lasts 20 minutes, and in that time you’ll light a candle, release your lantern, and be able to take lots of photos. The boat drivers are great at taking pictures of you and are generally lovely. They also expect a tip; 20,000 VND is usually enough.
Cooking Class and Coconut Boat Ride
I booked a cooking class through my hostel, but it was run by Cam Thanh Family Tours. All the hostels use this company, so it’s a lot of fun. The price of the day was 575,000 VND (approx. £18). It included a market visit, coconut boat tour, and the cooking class itself. If you contact the company directly, you may be able to get it cheaper.
The coconut boats are the iconic spinning ones, which is a lot of fun. You unfortunately have to pay extra to be spun, about 50,000 VND (approx. £1.50), and then tip your driver around 20,000 VND (approx. 60p).
We made four dishes at the cooking class, and the ones you get will depend on your day. They were very accommodating for vegans and vegetarians, giving us alternative ingredients and explaining the differences personally. It was very well run and a fun experience, and the food was great! They even sent us the recipes afterwards.
Thanh Ha Pottery Village
The Thanh Ha Pottery Village is a little bit further out from the centre of Hoi An, but you can walk or cycle there. It’s only 3km. You will pay an entry fee when you arrive, which is 35,000 VND (approx. £1.10), and it includes a free terracotta gift which you can go and redeem at one of the pottery shops. It’s a small town to walk around but so wholesome. There are several houses where you can go and make something yourself. The people there will teach you everything and give you as much help as you need. If you don’t keep the item, it will be free. If you do want to keep one, you can pay to have it fired and paint it. The price will depend on what you make, but I made and glazed a tiny pot and paid 30,000 VND (approx. 90p). I highly recommend heading out here to visit!
Lantern Making
I went to the Lantern Lady workshop to make my own Vietnamese lantern. It was a very cute place that I just walked into - no need to book. She will walk you through the entire process and you can choose the fabrics for your lantern. They also are foldable - they collapse to about the size of a 500ml water bottle, so you can take it with you on the rest of your trip. I lugged mine around for 4 months after this, and it survived! Definitely choose the option where you make it from scratch or you won't really do much. The prices vary depending on size, but I paid 140,000 VND (approx. £4.30) for the small one.
My lantern!
Explore the Old Town
The Old Town of Hoi An is so picturesque. There are so many adorable cafés, shops, and restaurants to visit, and it is so gorgeous. Take at least half a day to make the most of the city, during the day and at night.
Walk Along the Riverside
The river in Hoi An has a lovely path next to it which you can walk down to escape the centre of the city. It’s a quiet walk without many tourists, and there are a few places you can stop along the way to get a coffee or food.
Tailoring
Hoi An is often known as the tailoring capital of the world because of the sheer number of clothing tailors in the city. On some streets, every shop is a tailor. It’s relatively cheap to have clothes made here, and because of that, it’s one of the most popular things to do. I was overwhelmed by the choice, so I have listed some of the top tailor recommendations below. Do some research on each one to see if they specialise in anything you want to have made. Make sure you go in with some ideas, and get quotes from multiple shops before you decide on one. Another tip: always tell them you have fewer days than you do, so if you’re in Hoi An for three days, tell them you’re only there for two. This will ensure the pieces are done on time. If you want to ship your clothes home rather than carry them around, most tailors offer this option.
45 Thu Tailors - this is the one I went with because of reviews and recommendations from friends. It was not the cheapest but a very good price for the quality I received. I had two mini dresses made from pure linen and paid US$55 for each of them. A top/skirt co-ord made from pure linen cost me US$60.
Two Sisters
Ro Ro tailors
Canali
Mien’s Linen Tailor Shop
Peace Tailors
41 Tailor
Where to Stay
I stayed at the Imperfect Downtown Hostel. It was a recommendation from someone I’d met in Ninh Binh and I was so happy I decided to stay there. It was a small hostel but they had the friendliest staff and everyone there was lovely. We got free breakfast, had social activities organised, and the place was spotlessly clean and in a great location in the Old Town. I can’t recommend it enough.
Where to Eat (vegan friendly places)
You will be spoiled for choice for food in Hoi An. Here are some of my favourites:
Quan Chay Dam vegetarian restaurant: an amazing Vietnamese buffet as well as an a la carte menu. Quite cheap too!
Rosie’s Café: lots of vegan and veggie options here. It’s all Western food and a little bit out of the Old Town but it is so worth it!
Banh mi Phuong: they have a great tofu and avocado banh mi.
Port City Bagels: a little bagel spot with vegan options.
Banh Mi Chay: more incredible tofu banh mis!
My meal at Chickpea Eatery
Chickpea Eatery: the best vegan place with veganised versions of all staple Vietnamese dishes! And the friendliest staff.
Nourish Eatery: all food is veggie or vegan. It is also a lot of Western food, a little bit out of the old town, and a tiny bit more expensive, but also very worth it!
25s Café: a great place for breakfast. They have lots of smoothie bowls, juices, smoothies, coffee, and more.
Minh Hien Vegetarian Restaurant: there are lots of locations for this one. It’s great Vietnamese food and has a very labelled vegan/veggie menu.
Burrito Bowl at Rosie's Café
Dalat
A lot of people skip Dalat, but I personally loved it. While it is in the south of Vietnam, it’s in the mountains so it is a lot cooler which is lovely. I stayed 3 nights which is a lot more than most people, but my days were packed.
Things to Do
Canyoning
Canyoning in Dalat was hands down one of the best experiences I had in Vietnam. I booked through my hostel - all hostels will use one of the two tour operators in the city: Highland Adventure Travel or Highland Sport Travel. It is on the expensive side, and costs around £60, but is worth every penny.
You will abseil down waterfalls (up to 25m high!), go down natural waterslides, ziplines, and have plenty of time for swimming. It includes a great lunch (vegan and veggie friendly!), and lots of photos of you in action. I cannot recommend it enough.
Tour of Dalat’s Hotspots
There are several companies offering tours of Dalat’s hotspots, including waterfalls and other attractions. You can also hire a driver for a day if you’re a bigger group. Our driver took us to Elephant Falls, Lady Buddha, the Alpine Coaster, Dantala Falls, Mongo Land, a silk farm, cricket farm, and the Crazy House. Of these things, Mongo Land and the cricket farm were not worth visiting, and the alpine coaster is only worth doing if you haven’t done the one in Ba Na Hills in Da Nang.
Elephant Falls
Elephant Falls is visitable from behind Lady Buddha for free. You head down the stairs behind Lady Buddha, and you can scramble a bit through the forest to get closer. Otherwise, you will have to go in through the main entrance and pay a fee.
Lady Buddha
Dantala Falls is where the alpine coaster is. You can enter and see the waterfall for 50,000 VND (approx. £1.50), but you’ll have to pay an additional 130,000 VND (approx. £4) for the cheapest alpine coaster if you want to take it down to the falls. Walking down is free. Pongour Falls is the biggest waterfall in Dalat. I regret not visiting this one because it does look amazing, but it is quite a bit further away.
Crazy House
The silk farm was quite cool to see. It cost 20,000 VND (approx. 60p) to enter and someone is usually there to explain the process which is really interesting.
The Crazy House is one of the biggest and busiest attractions in Dalat. It costs 60,000 VND (approx. £1.85) to enter, and you can spend a lot of time walking around and exploring. It’s difficult to describe but definitely worth a visit!
Crazy House
Maze Bar
Maze Bar is another iconic place in Dalat. You need to buy a drink to enter, and then you will go downstairs into a labyrinth of narrow passages and stairs to find the main bar area. It’s a strange atmosphere in there but worth it for the experience. It shuts at midnight.
Paddle Boarding
I booked a tour through my hostel for £16 that took me to Tuyen Lam Lake for paddle boarding. Even if you don’t book a tour and have a motorbike, head over there to look because it is beautiful and so peaceful. Unfortunately, it is getting really built up around the lake which is sad, but I was literally one of the only people on the lake which was magic. You can choose to go for sunrise, in the morning, or sunset.
The same company offers a camping excursion on the lake, which looked incredible. Unfortunately they have a minimum number required to go ahead with the trip, and those numbers were not met when I wanted to go. If you are interested, try and find people to go with and speak to your hostel!
Where to Stay
I highly recommend Mooka’s Home hostel. It was a great place in a perfect location. The beds were super comfortable and it was really clean. They hosted a BBQ every other night on the rooftop which was very well attended and very social. I stayed at Dalat Family Hostel for one night because Mooka’s Home was sold out, and I would not recommend it at all. It was very dirty, extremely loud, and you have no privacy or security.
Where to Eat (vegan friendly places)
Most hostels in Dalat have family dinners, and you can go even if you don’t stay there. You’ll have to book them in advance (on the day is fine, as long as it’s not the evening yet!). I had these every night I was there and they are a great way to meet people and have incredible food. Other than that, I ate at Hu Tieu Tuyen which is near Mooka’s Home. They didn’t speak English at all but the food was great!
Ho Chi Minh City
I didn’t love Ho Chi Minh City, but there is so much history there, it is almost essential to visit. I only stayed 2 nights and this was plenty.
Things to Do
Cu Chi Tunnels
The Cu Chi Tunnels were used during the Vietnam War and are now an outdoor museum. I did a day tour that I booked with one of the agencies on the street, and paid 380,000 VND (approx. £11.70). It was a two hour drive from the city, and you stop at a handicraft workshop which is really interesting. When you arrive, you receive your tickets and enter the area. They show you a video about the tunnels and then lead you around to see the different entrances, ventilation and cooling systems, traps, weapons, and much more. You also have the opportunity to go down into the tunnels, but beware they are very small and very hot! You’ll be crouching down the entire time, and will have to almost lie down at one point. There are a few exits if you want to get out early, but otherwise it’s about 60m of tunnel and it’s almost completely dark.
You’re also taken to a shooting range where you can fire AK47s at targets. I don’t recommend doing this as it came across as very insensitive in the area. There is a place where you can get food next to the range, but the options aren’t extensive and they often run out of food, so bring some yourself just in case.
War Remnants Museum
This museum provides a great overview of the war. A lot of the Cu Chi Tunnels tours drop you there at the end of the tour if you ask, and you can explore in your own time.
Book Street
This is an entire street in HCMC with books on tables right down the middle of it, and loads of bookstores and cafés along the sides. It’s a great place to wander around and relax.
Café Apartments
I recommend walking to the Café Apartments because it’s along a lovely set of streets with plenty to see. The building itself is cool too, and you can go inside to any of the cafés for food and drinks. It’s in a good area to explore, and if you dare cross the road, walking down by the river is great too.
Café Apartments
Where to Stay
I stayed at Bui Vien Street Hostel. I honestly would not recommend it for more than 2 nights, but it did the job. It was in a good location and the beds were good, but it didn’t have much atmosphere and was pretty small and cramped.
Book Street
Where to Eat (vegan friendly places)
I ate at two great places in HCMC; there were plenty of options but I wasn’t there for that long!
Tuệ Tín Chay Quán: this was quite difficult to find down a little alleyway, but was super cute and local, and felt like someone’s home. The food was great and very cheap - only 40,000 VND (approx. £1.25) for each dish.
Hello SaiGon Restaurant: this place was a nice restaurant down a quieter street and had decent veggie food.
Bui Vien Walking Street
Budget
Aside from the tours, Vietnam was one of the cheapest countries I’ve visited. The Ha Giang Loop, Sapa trekking, and Ha Long Bay cruise made my daily spend go up significantly, but nevertheless, my daily average was £46. Outside of the days on tours, I was spending around £20 - £25 a day. This included accommodation, food, local transport, all activities, and my SIM card. Hostels range from £2 - £12 a night depending on where you are, and meals will cost you between £1 and £4.
Pretty much everywhere in Vietnam is cash only, so make sure you have enough. There are two ATMs that don’t charge you a foreign transaction fee: VP Bank and TP Bank. It’s worth holding out for one of them! There is usually one in most bigger towns and cities.
I hope you find this guide useful. It’s a lot of information but hopefully helps you design the best Vietnam itinerary to suit your wants and needs. As always, look after the places you visit and leave only your footprints behind :)
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